El viatge

Una ruta en tren sota l'aurora boreal noruega

La ruta parteix de la pintoresca ciutat noruega de Trondheim i continua durant gairebé 10 hores en un sorprenent i agrest paisatge fins a arribar a la remota ciutat àrtica de Bodø

Northern lights or Aurora Borealis over atypical red houses rorbu, Svolvaer Lofoten Norway — El poble de Svolvær, a l'axipèlag Lofoten. Sergi Reboredo

Sergi Reboredo

03/12/2023

9 min

TrondheimDiuen les guies de viatge que aquest trajecte és un dels viatges nocturns amb tren més especials del món i, probablement, ho és. El nostre tren travessa la regió noruega de Nordland, a la costa nord-occidental de la península escandinava; un paisatge típic de costes retallades, nombrosos fiords i illes, muntanyes escarpades i planícies il·luminades en uns certs mesos per les fosforescències boreals. El poeta noruec Sveinulv Jarnæss descrivia així les nits a la regió en un poema de 1950: "Abraça les nits de Nordland, si pots, les més belles del món. El cel en flames en el foc de l'aurora boreal, sobre un país de les meravelles dels somnis". I és que la màgia de les seves planícies, tenyides d'un blanc infinit, enamoren només de pensar-hi.

Els locals ho coneixen com "el tren del Cercle Polar Àrtic" o "el tren del sol de mitjanit", i la seva targeta de visita inclou vistes a llacs, rius i fiords, així com l'espectacular glacera Svartisen. Durant l'estiu, el sol es pot veure al llarg de les 24 hores del dia. A l'hivern, les aurores boreals apareixen omplint el cel de llums increïbles.

La ruta parteix de la pintoresca ciutat noruega de Trondheim i continua durant gairebé 10 hores a través d'un sorprenent i agrest paisatge fins a arribar a la remota ciutat àrtica de Bodø. Amb 44 estacions, 295 ponts, 712 passos a nivell i 154 túnels, representa la línia ferroviària més llarga de Noruega, i és, a més, l'única que creua el cercle polar àrtic. Compta amb dues sortides diàries, una diürna que surt de Trondheim a les 7.38 h i arriba a Bodø a les 17.28 h, i una altra nocturna que surt de Trondheim a les 23.40 h i arriba a Bodø a les 9.16 h

L'estació de Lønsdal, inaugurada el 10 de desembre de 1947. Sergi Reboredo El tren arribant a Lønsdal, una de les parades del trajecte. Sergi Reboredo

L'estació de Lønsdal, inaugurada el 10 de desembre de 1947. Sergi Reboredo El tren arribant a Lønsdal, una de les parades del trajecte. Sergi Reboredo

Trondheim, l'antiga capital

Amb els seus gairebé 200.000 habitants, Trondheim és una de les ciutats més grans de Noruega. Fins a l'any 1217 va ser la capital del país, i continua sent la ciutat on els nous reis reben la seva benedicció cerimonial. Situada al costat d'un fiord, la ciutat està envoltada de pujols boscosos, amb el riu Nidelva formant un meandre que envolta el barri antic.

Les seves cases de fusta han vist com la ciutat ha estat arrasada pel foc en moltes ocasions en els últims 500 anys. Durant les guerres del segle XVII amb Suècia, va patir importants desperfectes. La seva expansió moderna data de 1877, quan es va completar la primera línia de ferrocarril que la unia directament amb Oslo. La catedral de Nidarosdomen, el seu monument religiós més imponent, ofereix unes vistes molt atractives, i és el santuari nacional de Noruega, construït sobre la tomba de San Olav.

Parada a Mosjøen

Gairebé 6 hores triga el tren a arribar Mosjøen, un bonic poble costaner de pescadors amb cases de fusta pintades en colors ocre, en el qual sembla que el temps s'hagi aturat. El carrer principal, Sfogata, amb els seus 450 m de llarg, és el més llarg de tota la comarca. A l'hivern, els senders il·luminats permeten practicar esquí i s'organitzen petites rutes amb raquetes de neu a la recerca dels focs nocturns per als amants de la natura. També hi ha qui prefereix buscar llocs més apartats en els quals apreciar amb més detall les aurores boreals. Precisament l'increment de turistes a la recerca d'aquest fenomen ha portat que un sector important de la població que antigament vivia pràcticament de la pesca es dediqui actualment a activitats turístiques vinculades amb les aurores.

Mo i Rana, ciutat de l’acer

A les 14.21 h el tren es deté a Mo i Rana, una ciutat de 22.000 habitants situada a 80 quilòmetres al sud del cercle polar àrtic. És la ciutat més gran d'Helgeland i la tercera més important del nord de Noruega. La seva ràpida expansió es va deure en gran mesura a la construcció. En el passat se la coneixia com La Ciutat de l'Acer, avui dia se la coneix com La Ciutat del Cercle Polar Àrtic, i és que s'està especialitzant cada vegada més en l'explotació dels seus recursos naturals: fiords, boscos d'avets, coves i glaceres, pel turisme. El museu d'història del salmó, els viatges a les coves i la glacera Svartisen són les destinacions predilectes entre els que baixen del tren, així com gaudir d'algunes especialitats culinàries com la carn de ren i el marisc.

Typical sami food Inside a family sami house in Lønsdal Storjord, Norway. Saltfjellet-Svartisen national park. Gurpi, Sami reindeer salami.

Gurpi is a type of cured reindeer meat, a specialty of the Sámi, an indigenous nomadic herding people who live in the mountains round Idre in the north of Sweden on the border with Norway, and also in Finland and Russia. The reindeer plays a fundamental role in their lives. The meat comes from free-range reindeers reared in pastures in the forests, unfed by man and without being treated with antibiotics. The animals feed exclusively on grass, mushrooms and lichen, and are butchered every autumn, from October to December, when the mating season is over and their meat is superior. The meat is processed in legally approved workshops, then smoked over naked fires inside the traditional kota tents.
The fact that the reindeer are raised in the wild is extremely important even when the moment comes to butcher them. The Sami, in fact, build huge pens in the forest, sometimes with a diameter of several kilometers, and herd the reindeer into them. They then choose the animals they wish to butcher and coax them into smaller pens that are still, nevertheless, large enough for them to graze on the grass and mushrooms and plants normally available in the forest. This system of smaller pens, designed to take the reindeer gradually closer to the area where they are to be slaughtered, causes no stress to the animals since it does not involve transporting or catching them.
The reindeer are thus not subjected to the stress of conventional slaughter and their meat is more tender as a result. Traditionally Sami butchers thank each reindeer before slaughtering them. — Typical sami food Inside a family sami house in Lønsdal Storjord, Norway. Saltfjellet-Svartisen national park. Gurpi, Sami reindeer salami. Gurpi is a type of cured reindeer meat, a specialty of the Sámi, an indigenous nomadic herding people who live in the mountains round Idre in the north of Sweden on the border with Norway, and also in Finland and Russia. The reindeer plays a fundamental role in their lives. The meat comes from free-range reindeers reared in pastures in the forests, unfed by man and without being treated with antibiotics. The animals feed exclusively on grass, mushrooms and lichen, and are butchered every autumn, from October to December, when the mating season is over and their meat is superior. The meat is processed in legally approved workshops, then smoked over naked fires inside the traditional kota tents. The fact that the reindeer are raised in the wild is extremely important even when the moment comes to butcher them. The Sami, in fact, build huge pens in the forest, sometimes with a diameter of several kilometers, and herd the reindeer into them. They then choose the animals they wish to butcher and coax them into smaller pens that are still, nevertheless, large enough for them to graze on the grass and mushrooms and plants normally available in the forest. This system of smaller pens, designed to take the reindeer gradually closer to the area where they are to be slaughtered, causes no stress to the animals since it does not involve transporting or catching them. The reindeer are thus not subjected to the stress of conventional slaughter and their meat is more tender as a result. Traditionally Sami butchers thank each reindeer before slaughtering them. Sergi Reboredo Steak tartar norway style in Blomsterbua Mat & Vin restaurant in Mosjoen Norway. Traditional norway food. Sergi Reboredo

Typical sami food Inside a family sami house in Lønsdal Storjord, Norway. Saltfjellet-Svartisen national park. Gurpi, Sami reindeer salami. Gurpi is a type of cured reindeer meat, a specialty of the Sámi, an indigenous nomadic herding people who live in the mountains round Idre in the north of Sweden on the border with Norway, and also in Finland and Russia. The reindeer plays a fundamental role in their lives. The meat comes from free-range reindeers reared in pastures in the forests, unfed by man and without being treated with antibiotics. The animals feed exclusively on grass, mushrooms and lichen, and are butchered every autumn, from October to December, when the mating season is over and their meat is superior. The meat is processed in legally approved workshops, then smoked over naked fires inside the traditional kota tents. The fact that the reindeer are raised in the wild is extremely important even when the moment comes to butcher them. The Sami, in fact, build huge pens in the forest, sometimes with a diameter of several kilometers, and herd the reindeer into them. They then choose the animals they wish to butcher and coax them into smaller pens that are still, nevertheless, large enough for them to graze on the grass and mushrooms and plants normally available in the forest. This system of smaller pens, designed to take the reindeer gradually closer to the area where they are to be slaughtered, causes no stress to the animals since it does not involve transporting or catching them. The reindeer are thus not subjected to the stress of conventional slaughter and their meat is more tender as a result. Traditionally Sami butchers thank each reindeer before slaughtering them. Sergi Reboredo Steak tartar norway style in Blomsterbua Mat & Vin restaurant in Mosjoen Norway. Traditional norway food. Sergi Reboredo

Lønsdal, llar dels samis

Un quart d'hora abans de les quatre arribem a l'estació de Lønsdal. No es tracta d'una gran infraestructura, sinó d'una casa de fusta de dos pisos que gràcies al seu color vermell destaca enmig d'un bosc d'avets coberts per un mantell de neu enmig del no-res, tallat a ganivet en dues meitats per la via fèrria. L'estació va ser inaugurada el 10 de desembre de 1947. L'interès d'aquesta parada resideix a visitar el Saltfjellet - Svartisen, un dels parcs nacionals més bonics de Noruega i hàbitat d'una colònia estable d'indígenes samis. S'estima que entre Suècia, Noruega, Finlàndia i Rússia, únicament queden uns 82.000 nadius, encara que una bona part d'ells ja ni tan sols parlen la llengua i viuen en les grans ciutats.

Inside a family sami house in Lønsdal Storjord, Norway. Saltfjellet-Svartisen national park.

In Saltfjellet is the Saltfjellet Svartisen, one of the most beautiful national parks - for many - in Norway. Although there is so much unspoiled and beautiful nature in this country that I could not confirm it. But this area is privileged: it is home to the second largest ice field in Norway. Getting to the town of Saltfjellet is very easy with the Norland railway: go up at Mo i Rana station and get off at Lønsdal station, along the E6 road (or the Arctic road). A good (and I think unique) place to stay is the Saltfjellet Hotell, ideal for visiting the area and enjoying outdoor experiences such as fishing and hiking. This area is also a traditional reindeer herding area and therefore a territory closely linked to the Sami community. Being in the land of the Sami you cannot miss the opportunity to get to know their culture, customs and history. Visiting Sami monuments, driving a reindeer sleigh or sharing a dinner with a Sami family in Oskdal is amazing. The experience is managed by the hotel. — Inside a family sami house in Lønsdal Storjord, Norway. Saltfjellet-Svartisen national park. In Saltfjellet is the Saltfjellet Svartisen, one of the most beautiful national parks - for many - in Norway. Although there is so much unspoiled and beautiful nature in this country that I could not confirm it. But this area is privileged: it is home to the second largest ice field in Norway. Getting to the town of Saltfjellet is very easy with the Norland railway: go up at Mo i Rana station and get off at Lønsdal station, along the E6 road (or the Arctic road). A good (and I think unique) place to stay is the Saltfjellet Hotell, ideal for visiting the area and enjoying outdoor experiences such as fishing and hiking. This area is also a traditional reindeer herding area and therefore a territory closely linked to the Sami community. Being in the land of the Sami you cannot miss the opportunity to get to know their culture, customs and history. Visiting Sami monuments, driving a reindeer sleigh or sharing a dinner with a Sami family in Oskdal is amazing. The experience is managed by the hotel. Sergi Reboredo Inside a family sami house in Lønsdal Storjord, Norway. Saltfjellet-Svartisen national park. In Saltfjellet is the Saltfjellet Svartisen, one of the most beautiful national parks - for many - in Norway. Although there is so much unspoiled and beautiful nature in this country that I could not confirm it. But this area is privileged: it is home to the second largest ice field in Norway. Getting to the town of Saltfjellet is very easy with the Norland railway: go up at Mo i Rana station and get off at Lønsdal station, along the E6 road (or the Arctic road). A good (and I think unique) place to stay is the Saltfjellet Hotell, ideal for visiting the area and enjoying outdoor experiences such as fishing and hiking. This area is also a traditional reindeer herding area and therefore a territory closely linked to the Sami community. Being in the land of the Sami you cannot miss the opportunity to get to know their culture, customs and history. Visiting Sami monuments, driving a reindeer sleigh or sharing a dinner with a Sami family in Oskdal is amazing. The experience is managed by the hotel. Sergi Reboredo

Arribada a Bodø

Una espessa boira cobreix ara el paisatge gelat pel qual circulem. El riu Luonosjahka, pràcticament congelat, apareix a instants pel costat esquerre de la nostra finestreta mig amagant-se després dels avets. El gris és el color predominant, només trencat per algunes cases disseminades de color vermell.

A les 17.32 h de la tarda el tren arriba a l'estació de Bodø, final del nostre apassionant trajecte per terres àrtiques. Bodø és la capital i l'àrea urbana més poblada de la província de Nordland. Se situa al nord del cercle polar àrtic i gaudeix del sol de mitjanit des del 4 de juny fins al 8 de juliol. La ciutat compta amb nombrosos atractius turístics, com Saltstraumen, el remolí d'aigua més potent del món, o per als amants de la naturalesa, la ruta de senderisme sobre la muntanya de Keiservarden amb vistes de 360 graus sobre la ciutat. També ofereix prestigiosos festivals de música, rutes d'art urbà o el museu de l'Aviació, inaugurat l'any 1994.

D'excursió per Keiservarden a Bodø. Sergi Reboredo

Escapada a les Lofoten

Des de l'atrafegat port de Bodø és possible fer aquesta increïble excursió. Tres ferris surten cap a diferents parts de les illes Lofoten, per la qual cosa aquesta ciutat s'ha convertit en un punt de parada popular. Les Lofoten són, sens dubte, les illes més fotogèniques del món, amb paisatges que deixen sense alè: muntanyes nevades a més de 1.300 m d'altura que surten de mar, camps de futbol impossibles al costat de penya-segats i espectaculars aurores boreals.

Snow landscape at Norwegian Fishing Village Museum Å in Svolvaer Lofoten Islands Norway

The Norwegian Fishing Village Museum is located in the centre of one of the best preserved and complete old fishing villages in Norway. The museum´s main theme is life in the fishing village from approx. 1840 to 1960, and the development of Lofoten fishing over the last 250 years. Visit several buildings with varied exhibitions, and our traditional bakery in the summer season! The listed museum buildings are open whole year round with various opening hours in the summer and winter season.

• The Bakery has an old stone oven from 1878, and bakes delicious bread and cinnamon rolls
• The Boathouse, with traditional wooden boats (Nordland boats)
• The Cod Liver Oil Factory, the oldest in North-Europe
• The Home of the fisherman´s family
• The Post Office, where the expedition of the steam ships were held
• The Forge, where the blacksmith was working
• Gammelbutikken – The old grocery shop, located in a house built in 1843
• Rorbu – The fisherman´s cabin is accessible on guided tours — Snow landscape at Norwegian Fishing Village Museum Å in Svolvaer Lofoten Islands Norway The Norwegian Fishing Village Museum is located in the centre of one of the best preserved and complete old fishing villages in Norway. The museum´s main theme is life in the fishing village from approx. 1840 to 1960, and the development of Lofoten fishing over the last 250 years. Visit several buildings with varied exhibitions, and our traditional bakery in the summer season! The listed museum buildings are open whole year round with various opening hours in the summer and winter season. • The Bakery has an old stone oven from 1878, and bakes delicious bread and cinnamon rolls • The Boathouse, with traditional wooden boats (Nordland boats) • The Cod Liver Oil Factory, the oldest in North-Europe • The Home of the fisherman´s family • The Post Office, where the expedition of the steam ships were held • The Forge, where the blacksmith was working • Gammelbutikken – The old grocery shop, located in a house built in 1843 • Rorbu – The fisherman´s cabin is accessible on guided tours Sergi Reboredo

Antigament, la pesca i l'assecament del bacallà representaven l'únic mode de vida dels locals. Avui dia, el turisme és la principal via d'ingressos i es palpa fins i tot en els mateixos assecadors, en els quals desenes de turistes proveïts de trípode intenten treure la millor instantània. Els restaurants de la zona ofereixen una exquisida gastronomia que evidentment gira al voltant d'aquest singular peix, cuinat de mil maneres diferents.